Bienvenue à Paris

It’s inevitable. A friend of a friend of a cousin is coming to Paris and wants to know where to go. I’ve been here two weeks and I’ve already been asked what to do and (more importantly) where to eat.

This post is for those visitors. I’ll continue to update with new finds and recommendations, but the following are my favorites compiled over years of intensive research thus far. Enjoy!

Places to go

·       Notre Dame – Walk around Ille St. Louis first, which is nearby and known for Berthillon ice cream, then head to Notre Dame. I personally don’t think the line to go inside is worth it, but that’s just me. The garden in the back of the church is beautiful and offers a different view. A great spot to get photos is from the bridge between Ille de la Cité and the left bank. Sit at the Shakespeare and Company café for a coffee with a view. It’s touristy but cute. Swing by next door for the famous bookshop

·       Eiffel Tower – Best views are from the Seine at night. The first five minutes of every hour (before 2 AM), the Eiffel Tower lights up. Très romantique

·       Champs-Elysées – Peruse the Louis Vuitton shop if you want to torture yourself. Swing by Ladurée (not far) for famous macaroons. Obviously wave hello to the beautiful Publicis building and swing by the drugstore which has a Michelin-starred restaurant by Robuchon (king of French cuisine)

·       Moulin Rouge – On a seedy street so watch your bags. Cruise around Montmartre (north) if you have time beforehand

·       Seine – Walk across the Pont Neuf for history and the Pont des Arts for street performers

·       Tuilleries – Beautiful gardens

·       Jardin du Luxembourg – My favorite gardens. Walk around the edge of the Palais du Luxembourg to the left if you’re coming from the north of Paris and you’ll find small enclaves with beautiful alcove gardens

·       Montmartre – Intense hill in northern Paris with beautiful views of the city and little streets/cafés. Stop by Le Consulat for the classic Insta pic

·       Le Marais – My neighborhood! Beautiful, centrally located part of the city with shops, markets and culture

·       St. Etienne du Mont – Beautiful, lesser know church right next to the Pantheon and Sorbonne

Museums

·       Louvre – Prepare yourself for the line and remember it’s closed on Tuesdays. The gardens nearby, le Jardin des Tuileries, are a great place to sit outside and enjoy warm weather. Walk from here to Place de la Concorde if a statue and a ferris wheel are your thing

·       L’Orangerie – My personal favorite because it has a ton of Monet

·       Musee d’Orsay

·       Musee Rodin

·       Centre de Pompidou – Modern art

·       Versailles – Bit of a trek but worth it if you’re here for more than a few days. Go in the summer if you can because the gardens are beautiful

Restaurants

·       Traditional

o   Bistrot Paul Bert – Located on Rue Paul Bert (a few doors down from a wine bar that’s fantastic as well). Go for traditional food, as the French do. Good dinner spot

o   Les Deux Magots – Classic choice for drinks, but don’t get dinner here. It’s wildly expensive

o   Brasserie Lipp – Classic choice for dinner

o   Le Dome – Another solid choice known for seafood but they have other dishes as well

o   Cafe Patrissan – Been coming here since I was a peanut for traditional french fare. See pic here for evidence

o   Le Temps de Cerises – Neighborhood spot by me. Say Lauren sent you – they’ll have no idea who I am but maybe they’ll pretend. Get the escargots and the house wine (which is pretty good for a few euros)

o   Le Comptoir du Relais – Great lunch spot in St.-Germain-des-Pres. Sometimes there’s a line but it moves quickly and it's worth it. Distinctly French vibe at a decent price. A great little wine bar is down the street (Ambassade de Bourgogne) and not far from Le Jardin du Luxembourg

·       Less traditional, but still French

o   Clown Bar – A fun atmosphere that’s distinctly French but not over the top. Make a reservation if you can. Famous for their veal brains if you're into that kind of thing

o   Le Servan – Current favorite restaurant in Paris. Great food and good wine at a decent price. The croquetas have cemented themselves in my heart

·       Dessert (or midday snack)

o   Ladurée – Famous macarons, get pistache and thank me later

o   Berthillon – Famous ice cream, get pistache and thank me later

o   Jacques Genin – Incredible French chocolate with a shop in the Marais

·       Cafés

o   The best way to see Paris, just fall into one and people watch for an hour (or three)

·       General tips

o   Timing - The French go to dinner around 10. Too early for you? Get an apéro (before dinner drink) beforehand

o   Reservations - Not all restaurants need them BUT pay attention to when the restaurants close. It’s often counter-intuitive to what we do in the US

Shopping

·       Galeries Lafayette – Suuuper famous department store

·       Bon Marché – Stunning and has a great bakery inside

·       Fragonard – Good for souvenirs (found this in the South!)

·       BA&SH

·       Le Comptoir du Desert

Hotels

·       Le Relais St. Germain – Beautiful little hotel in a great part of the city. Chef Yves Camdeborde has a fantastic restaurant next door (Le Comptoir, mentioned above). Breakfast downstairs is amazing with beautiful breads, eggs, cheese and ham sliced off a house-cured leg if you want it (and you do)

·       B. Montmartre – Adorable little hotel in Montmartre by many cafes. Easy to get to Moulin Rouge. Feels like a slice of the city. Don’t be alarmed by funky artwork over the bed if you stay in room 24….

·       AirBnb – I found an amazing little apartment on Rue de la Roquette with AirBnb. Book in advance and don’t leave it to the last moment like I did

·       Pro tip for MSL-ers: If you're going to the office by the Champs Elysees, go to Hotel Vernet. It's incredible. Alternatively, if you're headed to Rue Feydeau (home sweet home for me) stay at La Maison Favart