A few days before New Years, I hopped on the short flight between Paris and Nice. Though I’d just left the US (where I was staying for Christmas), I felt like I was going home. Not home home, but somewhere comfortable just the same. I’ll explain.

More than forty years ago, my dad was living in the South of France and wanted to escape Nice for a night. He wandered into a hotel and restaurant hoping for a decent meal. While he could only afford one drink at the bar, he knew that he’d found somewhere special. How very right he was.

My dad moved back to the states but still found himself returning to the South of France and that specific hotel. When my parents married, they spent one night at the hotel on their honeymoon. Each summer they returned, staying a bit longer. When I was born, I was lucky enough to join them.

We’d always go at the same time every year and met other families who did the same. A group of about 20 (more?) of us from countries around the world (US, France, Belgium, UK, Canada, etc.) became close and looked forward to reuniting each year. We’re one loving, somewhat-dysfunctional family. We’ve seen break ups, weddings, babies, moves and everything in-between. When I moved to Paris, my European family mobilized to make sure I was happy.

Our family is also comprised of the waiters and owners at La Colombe D’or! We grieved when our beloved Mimi passed away. We too celebrated weddings and the planting of chestnut trees (for truffles). Several waiters switched jobs but we visit them and stay in touch as possible. I’ve known some of the waiters for more than 20 years now, and they remember me when I was just a little peanut.

It was among this family that I spent my New Years Eve. I was there for a few days to rest and prepare for what’s sure to be a big year. It was my first time visiting in the winter but everything was almost exactly how we’d seen it last.

The hotel itself is charming in its imperfection. Known for its art, it has a wild history. Story has it that starving artists once stayed at the hotel in exchange for their artwork – a painting or sculpture for room and board. Those starving artists turned out to be Picasso, Monet, Calder, Matisse, etc. and La Colombe D’Or found itself with one of the largest privately owned art collections in France. The art is wonderfully unavoidable. The pool, the terrace, the dining room and even the hotel rooms are lined with this magic.

Any critique of this hotel feels like complete treason, but I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention that the food is good but not great and definitely expensive. You’re paying for the ambiance, which is best on the terrace in summer for lunch or dinner. Favorite dishes on the lighter side are the hors d’oeuvres, le bouquet de crevettes (the sauce is killer – you’ll want to bathe in it), the sole grillée, a simple mixed salad or scrambled eggs with truffles (not on the menu).

My favorite heavier dishes are the fricassée de volaille, le poussin (solely for the gratin) or l’onglet à l'échalote. The cheese is pretty good, but the vacherin and the soufflé are magical. Skip the mar to avoid a headache (do as I say, not as I do).

Staying at La Colombe is incredible but leaving’s important too. We always take day trips out to the surrounding areas to explore – there’s just so much to see. The mountains are dotted with perched, medieval villages and often have views right down to the Mediterranean. The water is a turquoise and the sun shines 95% of the days in the summer. My stay this winter was mostly sunny as well with a few clouds here and there. This year we visited St. Jeannet, Antibes and of course Nice.

Restaurants included La Merenda (an old favorite in Nice) as well as L'ombre des Muriers (new and right across the street from Alain LLorca).

New Years Eve was special. At midnight, all the lights turned off and back on to a chorus of “Bonne annee” and “Bonne sante!” The room erupted into smiles and everyone got out of their seats to kiss one another and celebrate 2018. It was a perfect end to a thrilling, rewarding, terrifying year.

Cheers to 2018, and to hopefully visiting La Colombe D’Or again soon.